The Chianti Classico revolution: what’s new in the land of the Black Rooster
Press Conference at the ‘Tuscany Strikes Back’ tasting at Somerset House, 23rd April 2013

Albert Eistein, a man who knows a thing or two about the difference between complication and simplicity, once said: “Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler.” This was brought to my mind on April 23rd, when the great and the good of the wine writing world (and I) gathered in a packed room in Somerset House for a press conference to introduce the ‘Chianti Classico Revolution” at the combattantly named ‘Tuscany Strikes Back’ tasting. Perhaps the Consorzio del Vino Chianti Classico could take Einstein’s message to heart, too.

Here’s the deal: the old Chianti Classico appellation featured two levels: Chianti Classico, and Chianti Classic Riserva. With the new classification, a head has been added to this quality pyramid: Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, so that the hierarchy now looks a lot more like the Rioja format of Rioja, Rioja Reserva, and Rioja Gran Reserva. So far, so simple, and, in my view, a logical step. Here are the descriptions of the three levels:

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione
• Grapes must be grown by the winery itself
• Minimum aging requirements: 30 months, including 3 months of bottle aging
• Stricter chemical and sensory parameters

Chianti Classico Riserva
• Minimum aging requirements: 24 months, inlcuding 3 months of bottle aging
• New chemical and organoleptic parameters

Chianti Classico
• New chemical and organoleptic parameters

Views vary on the usefulness of the new category. On the plus side, it is the first true category in the appellation purposely made for estate-grown wines (plus it provides an attractive point to the pyramid), however, on the minus, there are general concerns about the necessity of a new quality tier. Silvia Fiorentini, who presented the new system for the Consorzio, said “people are confused between Chianti and Chianti Classico,” which, for me, begs the question: “then why make it even more confusing?” I wonder what Einstein would say?

Among some rather grumpy question, was a very pertinent one from Steven Spurrier. Producers will submit their wines for classification 30 months after the vintage (although this date seemed to be slightly fuzzy in the discussion) to a committee. Steven asked: “Who would the committee comprise of?” unfortunately the answer was that it would be that old chestnut ‘industry experts’. “But who exactly would these be?” he continued. The answer that it would be experts from both the region and outside it didn’t seem to dispel the fear that the same conflict of interest issues which have plagued both the Saint Emilion and Cru Bourgeois classifications would pop up here too. Italians, however, from my experience, seem to have a rather different way of dealing with such problems to the French. Rather than arguing (rather expensively, in court) about such things, a little bit of shoulder shrugging takes place, influence is exerted, and another appellation is entered into the books. The French, though, still have the apposite expression: “Le plus ça change, le plus c’est la même chose” (the more it changes, the more it stays the same.)

A tasting of Chianti Classico, conducted by a very nervous looking Andrea Rinaldi followed the presentation. “Would all the wines in the tasting be considered ‘Gran Selezione’ by the committee, in his opinion?” I asked. “Oh yes, of course” was both his, and Silvia Fiorentini’s answer, as expected. I wonder if they will be on the committee?

‘Morrisons Cellar reveals the UK gambles £4.7 billion on wine annually

Revolutionary new tool is hottest tip for taste confidence’

So, to Morrison’s Cellar last week for a tasting of their revamped range, and new online offer, as well as what they describe as their ‘revolutionary’ taste test.

Revolutionary it ain’t. A welcome bit of fun in the middle of the longest winter ever, it was. What you do is answer three questions on your food and drink preferences (I won’t say what they are, in case you want to do it yourself), which rate your palate with a number from 0 to 12. I imagine that most people with any competitive spirit in them would want to score high in this test, but Morrison’s divide the range into four flavour categories: sweet (0-3), fresh (4-6), smooth (7-9), intense (10-12). I scored 9 (I like my coffee white in the morning, you see), which puts me at the intense end of smooth. That seemed to fit with my own assessment of my character, or maybe its just wishful thinking. You can have a go at it yourself if you want at: http://apps2.finervision.com/morrisons/taste-test. The carrot is you get put into a draw to wine a case of wine, so give it a try if you are feeling lucky!

Anyway, I tasted some wine. The wines are divided into the same categories according to their character. Broadly, they seemed well characterized, although I am not sure that I would put Graham’s 20 Year Tawny Port in the fresh category. Here are my highlights from the different categories:

Sweet:

Yealands Black Label Pinot Gris, New Zealand, RRP £12.99

Forget Pinot Grigio, this is Pinot Gris, the same grape, but the proper version, in the Alsace style, which the Italians (among others) usurped. A lovely oily and rich ripe style, with sweet yellow peach flavours, refreshed by cool climate acidity, and medium-dry.

Première Vouvray, Loire, France, RRP £6.49

Which just goes to show you don’t have to spend a fortune to get a decent French wine. That classic combination of honeyed Chenin Blanc fruit sweeness, with Loire fresh acidity. Another medium one.

Fresh:

Pongrasz Brut, South Africa, RRP £13.99

In their words, a ‘getting ready for the big night out bottle’, made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Fresh, dry, with fruity hints. Well-named, really.

Baron de Badassière Picpoul de Pinet, France, RRP £7.99

A great example of good value from the Languedoc. Someone at Morrison’s buying team writes like they used to work for Oddbins, but I can do no better than their note: ‘Old Baron de Badass may have been last in the queue for surnames, but he sure knew how to make a gorgeously refreshing zingy white wine.’

Smooth:

Irony Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, California, USA, RRP £19.99

`This is the Russian River in California, not a river in Russia! An old-fashioned European style of Pinot, with spicy red fruit, rich and ripe, and hints of leather.

Grifone Primitivo di Puglia, Italy, RRP £6.99

The Italian version of the Californian Zinfandel (and cheaper), with ripe, sweet red and black fruit, and melted tannins. Maybe it’s a bit more intense than smooth, but let’s not quibble.

Intense:

Wirra Wirra 12^th Man Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills, Australia, RRP £16.99

Maybe the price is a little intense too; the wine, though, is ‘a ripper’ as Morrison’s put it. Full of tropical Australian fruit, integrated with French oak.

Piccini Sasso Al Poggio, Tuscany, Italy, RRP £12.99

A ‘Supertuscan’, with Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Loads of black cherries and fruit, firm tannin, and definitely intense.

At last, I would say that you can buy wine at Morrison unashamedly, according to a taste test rather than just because it’s cheap. Plus you get to find the answer to that nagging question of whether you are sweet, fresh, smooth, or intense. A useful life lesson in a bottle, if you like!

Wine tasting is a pleasant evening where you can learn about different wines, try them out and find new wines to enjoy that you might not have previously tried. It’s a chance to expand your knowledge of wine and get an expert opinion. It’s also a lot of fun.

Often wine tasting evenings can be more than just sitting around a table tasting, they can be turned into whole experiences. There are several exciting venues and themes, and at Winfield Wines we offer a wide range of wine tasting experiences. As one of the leading suppliers of events with wine tasting London wide, we know we can offer you something special.

We can offer something simple and classic, such as wine tastings from all the main wine growing areas with cheese or even chocolate if you want to make it a little different. We can also offer a more interactive experience with quizzes. This is something particularly popular with corporate events or celebrations such as birthdays and anniversaries. These quizzes can include guessing the grape or the age of a wine, and trying to work out which is the most expensive. You might be pleasantly surprised that your favourite is one of the least expensive. You could try the latest big thing, and that is sake. A traditional Japanese wine, it is less commonly drunk and so would be something new and exciting for you all to experience.

Location can be everything, and we offer a wide range of venues to choose from. If you are looking for something truly spectacular though, how about a cruise of the Thames on a river boat, enjoying the best views of London by water whilst trying out some of the best wines available.

Give us a call to ask any questions and so that we can set you up with a fantastic wine tasting experience.