There are two ways to afford to travel in Club Class on a long haul flight. One is to get a proper job (and by this I mean one not in the wine trade) and pay the full price, the other is to marry someone who works for an airline. On a recent trip to California I was afforded the luxury of just such an upgrade on a BA flight (so you see which of the options I chose). This was worth it both for the bed it provided, which can only be described as a magnificent, jet lag eliminating, luxury, and the quality of the wines offered. On a similar scale, the wine would rate as more of a very welcome treat, but it was perfectly suited to relieving the monotony of long-haul flight, and a welcome change from the pleasant, but uninspiring Cotes de Gascogne Colombard I usually encounter on aircraft
I didn’t set out with the intention of trying to assess any difference that altitude has on the wines, but they don’t mess around on BA, and Taittinger Brut Reserve NV was served as soon as we had sat down, and the whole way through the climb, so a sort of impromptu comparison took place. This Champagne is a long-time favourite of mine, creamy but not too much so, toasty but not overdone, with Chardonnay elegance shining through; excellent, and perfectly balanced, at sea level, even better at 18,000 feet, and downright superb at 36,000 (or was that the second refill talking)?
I tasted (that is tasted properly, before drinking with lunch) all 4 wines on the list. All were well selected, with a well-deserved place on the list.
Sancerre 2013, Château de Thauvenay was a high fruit version, with pineapple and ripe acidity no grassiness in evidence.
Clos Pegase Carneros Chardonnay 2012 was beautifully peachy, with a rich, creamy butterscotch palate and sherbet acidity, but definitely moderate by Californian standards, and a good food pairing with a duo of salmons.
Flor de Campo Pinot Noir 2012, Central Coast, California, is in fact from the south of the state, near Los Angeles, but cooled by that Pacific fog which pervades the coast, and creates cool climate conditions. This showed an expected attractive ripe red fruit, a hint of spice, chocolate oak, but not overdone, and great balance, restraint even.
Château des Cabans 2011, Cru Bourgeois Médoc was poised, with ripe berry fruits and a hint of violets, earthy, mid-weight, and with spicy oak. Although Cabernet dominant, it showed quite fluffy tannins, which went very well with my steak.
A memorable flight, lovely wines, great company, good food (it’s not every day you get to say that about airline food), and a start to a California experience that culminated in a visit to Ridge, described elsewhere. All you have to decide is which route to take to Club Class. A difficult decision; both options have attributes in common, of which troublesome but rewarding might be the best summary.